Sometimes, as you are whisking, you may notice the custard has set at the
bottom or side of the bowl. Don’t panic! Just give it a brisk whisk and take
the temperature again – as long as you are still under 80°C (175°F) the
whole mix isn’t overcooked. Continue!

After the custard reaches 70°C (160°F), it’s time to switch the whisk
for the spatula and become a full-time custard carer. Constantly and
gently stir/scrape the custard until it reaches the 80°C (175°F) target.

If you don’t have a thermometer, use visual clues – the custard will be
thicker and glossier. The foam will have dissipated and the custard
will be buff coloured, like a manila folder. It will have a soft custardy
quiver when you lightly tap the sur face with your spatula.

Remove the bowl from the pan, strain through a fine sieve into a fresh
bowl, then use a whisk to stir often (not briskly) at room temperature
for about 10 minutes to keep releasing the heat. Return the scraped
vanilla bean to the anglaise so it can keep on releasing its floral
goodness for as long as the cus tard is around.

Cool to lukewarm, then chill in a bottle or jar. If storing in a bowl
or tub, press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface to prevent a
skin forming. Pour with abandon or take sneaky sips while it graces
your fridge.

* If it does start to look split, there are three fixes. Use one or multiple:

1. Immediately scrape the mix into a fresh bowl (this stops the heat) and whisk
furiously to reduce the temperature.

2. Add a good slurp of cold cream to quickly cool it down.

3. Pour the custard into a food processor or blender and whiz until smooth.

The custard may retain a little graininess but will still be pourable. If it is too
grainy (feels textured on your palate), it’s R. I. P. custard.

Adaptrix
There is so much you can do to
a plain old custard to tie it in to
whatever it is being served with.
I generally like to leave the vanilla
in there as a background scent,
but  feel free to reduce or omit.

Malt-less
Switch the malt extract for plain
caster (superfine) sugar or honey.

Boozy
Of course! Any of the dark spirits  –
rum, bourbon, brandy, PX sherry  –
will make this extra delicious,
especially for festive times. Add when
the custard has chilled completely.

Start with 40 g/ml (1½ oz). Increase
as you wish, but be mindful that more
liquid will thin the custard slightly.

Thinner
Sometimes you have more milk than
cream when the custard-making bug
hits. That’s okay. If you can accept or
prefer thinner custard, swap the ratios
of cream and milk, or make it with all
milk. Just note that milkier custard
doesn’t work as well in a flan or tart.

Orange
Swap the malt syrup for caster
(superfine) sugar. Peel the peel (not the
pith) from 1 orange and pop the strips
in with the custard as it cooks. Leave
the peel in the custard as it cools and
is stored so it releases more flavour as
the custard hangs in the fridge. This is
one of my favourite custard flavours,
and a real treat with the Flourless
chocolate cake (page 159).

Coffee
Warm 400 g/ml (14 oz) milk with
30 g (1 oz) whole coffee beans.

The  next day, warm and strain, then
add extra milk to bring the mix up
to  350  g/ml (12½ oz) (the beans
will have absorbed some liquid)
and  continue.